Pasta Almanac
Long strands·abruzzo

Tonnarelli

toh-nah-REL-lee

Also known as spaghetti alla chitarra, maccheroni alla chitarra.

Gouache illustration of Tonnarelli

Specifications

Specifications for Tonnarelli
Lengthunmeasured
Width2 to 3 mm
Thickness2 to 3 mm
SurfaceTextured
DoughSemolina and egg
Cook time6 to 13 min
Section

square-section egg strand, about 2 to 3 mm per side

What it is

Tonnarelli is the Roman name for spaghetti alla chitarra, a square-section fresh egg strand cut by pressing rolled dough through a wire-strung wooden frame called a chitarra, which also leaves the surface slightly rough. The shape originates in Abruzzo, where a traditional recipe from the province of Teramo is documented to the early 1800s or before. Before the chitarra, the dough was cut with a notched rolling pin. In Lazio it took the name tonnarelli and became the canonical pasta for the Roman cacio e pepe. Treccani records the etymology as a diminutive of tondo, round, not from tonno, tuna, so the occasional tuna association is folk reasoning rather than a sourced origin.

Per the Treccani vocabolario, tonnarelli is a central and southern Italian form of tonderelli, a diminutive of tondo meaning round. The parallel name spaghetti alla chitarra comes from the chitarra, the guitar-like wooden frame strung with wires used to cut the strands.

What sauce it wants, and why

The square cross section gives more flat surface and edges than a round strand, and the chitarra leaves the pasta slightly rough and porous, so sauce clings to it well. That grip is why it is the classic carrier for emulsified Roman cheese sauces like cacio e pepe, and it also holds hearty meat ragu. Fresh egg tonnarelli cook in roughly 6 minutes, while dried semolina and water versions sold as spaghetto quadrato run about 10 to 13 minutes.

Pairs with

Cacio e pepe·Amatriciana·Carbonara

Classic plates: tonnarelli cacio e pepe, chitarra alla teramana, abruzzese ragu of pork, beef, and lamb.

Side by side

Tonnarelli vs Spaghetti

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