Pasta Almanac
Pairing · Ragu alla bolognese

The best shapes for ragu bolognese

Finely minced beef and pork cooked with soffritto, milk and wine, and only a small amount of tomato, simmered for hours until the fat and the meat stop being separate things. It is far paler and far less tomatoey than most people outside Italy expect.

Finely ground, fat-rich, barely tomatoed. The fat wants a porous egg ribbon, the solids want folds to hide in. Bologna serves it on tagliatelle, never spaghetti.

Canonical: tagliatelle, lasagna.

What we would not put it on

Spaghetti. This is the best known mismatch in Italian cooking: a round smooth strand cannot hold a fat-rich mince, and Bologna serves the sauce on a porous egg ribbon instead.

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